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How to get your League recaps on SRT
We get this question asked a lot.. Here's how to get your league on our show..
Send us an email at info @ insidesimracing.tv to get things going..
To have your leagues showcased on the SRT race recap show, we need to have someone from your series, produce and edit the piece in a format that is similar to ours. This is an example of a piece that was produced by the submitting league and aired on our show
To accomplish this, here’s exactly what we need
1) All standings must be with real names only. We can’t report on handles. If you race with handles, please have your drivers submit their names for these recaps.
2) Races must have a minimum of 20 participants
3) Recaps can be no longer than 2 minutes 30 seconds per series. We may allow more if there’s multiple divisions or longer videos if it’s a special event or season recap.
4) Video format : 720x480 as hi quality as you can get on audio and video settings. WMV or AVI are best for us to use. WMV seems to provide the best compression to quality ratio. All video clips need to be captured by you or the production / editing team.
5) Narration / Commentary: We can provide the voice talent for the recaps. You need to submit the story to us and we will then record it and make it available for the editor. You can also provide your own voice talent if you wish.
6) Music: We have 10 songs that are licensed for use on our show. No other music can be used unless it is purchased and licensed for SRT to air. We will provide a link to those 10 songs for the editor to choose from and use for the segment. If he can’t use it, or chooses to just edit the video to our commentary, we will add the music later.
7) All people that contributed to your segment will be listed in the post show credits. We need the names of writers, editors, etc.
FANATEC GTS RS and CLUBSPORT Pedal tips / setup
I've also added some tips and fixes that were in an iRacing forum thread...
My recommended settings for iracing are.
Wheel FFB 100
In game 5-8 depending on car
Dampening OFF / 0
"Drift mode" 5 or I think 7 or 8 felt good too.. I don't like the heavier dampening.
Center spring unchecked (I haven't tried it with drift mode yet)
Degrees of rotation - I liked 360 for the spec..
I also noticed that if you have problems with the beta driver not picking up the "drift mode' or going back to full dampening.. Just open up the control panel in windows and hit the FF effect button and it puts it back in drift mode.
For the pedals.. I short calibrated the brake and I also have mine attached on the second hole going up the pedal versus the stock bottom hole.. I found that the bottom hole feels like it's "binding" , but on the second hole, feels smooth but with less throw.. Which makes for a stiffer, more realistic feeling brake..IMO.. I also have the big potentiometer turned all the way right and DO NOT TOUCH the blue pot ! Make sure it is at full (I think) clock wise and stays there.
You have to take the pedals apart to get them in that second hole.. but to me it's worth it.. If you look at the Gas and clutch, they are in the second holes already..
For rfactor and other sims that use windows calibration, I used DI View, or you can use DX tweak to get your brake values where you want them.. In my review I will go in to detail on it..
One more thing..if you feel like your brake has too much deadzone when you first push the pedal, that can be changed with a simple firmware upgrade. I believe Thomas is going to make those accessible per what I translated from the German forum..
Hope you guys like your stuff.. Should be to you today on the west coast..
Since we didn't have time to do our video review.. There's more on the wheel and pedals for you new owners and future owners.
Oh..one other thing.. If you use the pedals plugged in on their own.. They have 1023 bits of resoultion.. If you plug them into the wheel (with the black/green svideo looking cable) you only get 255..
I also think iRacing calibration was kicking the drift mode off.. If it does, just calibrate in iRacing, exit, go to control panel FF effect and then back to iracing and it should be good..
It looks like our final QC is not working properly. We have other sets with similar problems.
Brake not reaching maximum:
If you have a set which cannot reach maximum values and has a big deadzone then something is wrong. A normal brake reacts from the beginning of the throw and easily reaches the max value. And you can adjust that with the big pot.
This cannot be fixed with a FW update. We need to remove some resistors on the PCB. This can be done by yourself if you have a soldering iron but of course you can also send us the CSP. If you do it yourself the warranty will still be intact even if you damage something by doing the patch. Please send an email to support if your pedal is affected
Brake jittering / binding:
You can feel small steps when pressing the brake
We used the wrong lubricant which disappeared in the hot container. We are now eperimenting with grease and bicycle chain lubricant and got no more problems with it.
We only heard about the issue and do not have a sample yet but it looks like the position of the magnet is not correct
It probably helps to move teh magnet a bit but we still need to investigate
It seems that only the second problem is affecting all pedals but to have those issues is totally unacceptable after all the additional efforts we made. I am pretty disappointed at the moment that this happened to some customers and would like to apologize. I can also promise that we will do everything to get you flawless working products.
Just tried moving the brake pedal link up one notch, which i did in about 2 mins once I figured out what to do.........which took 20 mins.
Use an allen key to unsrew the thread underneath the pedal which then releases the pin that links it all together. Push the pin through the hole with a larger allen key (or whatever else you have) and move the whole thing up a notch.
Push pin back through and tighten up the thread again. Job done.
No major work needed, but a little common sense helps (which I lack sometimes)
Only thing is, now that I have done it, the pedal seems to have vertually no travel at all. About 10mm ?? Surely that cannot be right ?
Might be ok once plugged in but seems odd to me at the mo.
Please do not use any force!
Before changing the position of the brake pedal you need to release the spring pressure.
It is very easy if you untighten the 4 screws on the two black back foots. Do not touch the screws in the back tube.
I will make a video how to do it. This is the only way to change anything on the pedals. I also recomment to do this to change the lubricant.
After some more tinkering I came across something that I thought might help some people get the feel "right." Try the longer metal plunger but leave everything else stock (first hole, Spring, and PU Foam.) This, coupled with tweaking the pot gives very smooth, controllable braking that can be repeated lap after lap. I know that a lot of people jumped straight for the second hole after reading previous posts, but I think the first hole with the longer plunger may be the ticket! Give it a try and let us know if it makes things any better. Don't forget to tweak the pot while in the property page so you can see what changes you are making. Once again, I hope this helps. Good luck all and happy lapping.
IMPORTANT: Please de-install all previous drivers manually before installation and make sure that the PWservice.exe or PWsrvc.exe is not running before installation. If possible search for those files and delete them because somtime the de-installation routine does not delete those programs.
Then after you unInstall the drivers---reboot.. Download Darins drivers again(just to make sure you didnt corrupt it the first time)--- now reinstall it..Reboot... Go into your game controller folder in the control panel and set everything.. Set rotation-- test ffb-- rumble--- set dampening to zero and drift to 8.. Now go into Sim settings/options --- and config your wheel.. ALSO make sure your setting ON THE WHEEL are correct.. What i mean by that is the little window on the top of the wheel-- press the button once.. it should say s-1.. the toggle the bottom button(bottom spoke) to ffb--- 100/sen 900 and sho 100.... then click the little button again so it goes off.. Now go out and run.. Come in.. Then go out again.. It was weird-- it took me going out on the track 2 or 3 times -- then the settings seemed to take effect(dont ask me why).. Maybe anothe reboot at this point - and you should be good..
On a side note, I discovered this last night and maybe it'll help someone else that is having issues with the brake. Last night I took mine apart to add the longer pin and move the pedal into the 2nd hole. When I had it all buttoned back up, I fired up the game controller applet to test it. I noticed at the upper part of the brake range, the input would just go to zero, then bounce between zero input and the input it should be registering for the pressure I was applying. What seemed to be causing it was the little white connector on the wires coming from the load cell to the little circuit board which holds the adjuster pot. 1 corner of the white plug was just a LITTLE bit raised. So much so I didn't think it would make a difference, but after pushing it back down, I had no more brake input drop outs.
Like I said earlier the only way I have found to have a nice progressive pedal feel is just to leave everything as is after you fix your notchiness. The pedal has good travel and progressively stiffens up, but you will have that initial deadzone. It's not bothering me much now that I have ran some laps and started to get accustomed to it. I would advise to stop tearing the brakes apart and just leave it at default, I'm sure there will be an update to fix that initial deadzone but they designed it that way so who knows. Just get out there and run a bunch of laps and you will start getting used to it faster than you think. Adjust the potentiameter to your liking to how hard you want the pedal to be before full lock.
Just fyi I am using the pedals hooked up directly to PC, if you hook up to wheel your pedals will not be as smooth. I think it's called the bit rate or something, all pedals have over 1000 increments when hooked up via usb.
I just called Fanatec and got through to Armin, I asked him about my order and he explained he is tech support but he will try to help me the best he can. He took my info and is sending an email to the office to see if they can ship my order without the table clamp.
He was really nice and helpful and explained he is lonely there right now because everyone is gone at E3 and he is only tech support, he did say that he gets to bump music though since he has the area to himself.
I also asked him about firmware & the force feedback issues. He said there should be no force feedback issue with being weak, he said the g25 is weaker than the GT3RS. He told me if you put in GTR Evolution you will see the strength of the wheel. I told him the guys with the weak FFB are on iRacing and he said he himself does not have much time testing iRacing, but since I brought it to his attention he is going to make an effort to test the wheel in iRacing. He explained that iRacing does not use the same drivers as the other sims, so this could be causing the settings to act funky. So try GTR and see how strong it is, maybe its not the wheel itself, maybe its the sim, he said the high settings in GTR Evo should be too strong.
Then I asked him about firmware for the pedal and he said when the first batch was having problems he created firmware to fix the issue before he identified it as a lubrication problem. He said if you change the lube from oil to grease that the pedal problems should be fixed, without firmware.
He definitely calmed my nerves because I finally have contact with someone, they are trying to service everyone but he said emails dont go to him if they are regarding orders, so if you have a tech question email Armin directly at firstname.lastname@example.org he said that will go directly to him, but order information he will not have much info on, only tech support. Order emails get forwarded to the office.
The USB cable will allow you higher resolution in the pedals, 1024 versus 255. If you plug in directly. You can go either way with it.
Now.. On your wheel..It sounds like you turned things on in the hardware display..
There's three settings on the hardware display..
3) SHO or vibration
FFB should be where you want it.. 33 - 66 or 100.. I run 100 and then adjust in game.
Rotation - should be to OFF if you are using software stops. If you set the wheel to 210, 360, or 540, thats where it will stay.. Hardware overrides software. so if you want 900. Turn it off on the wheel and adjust to 900 in software.
Vibration for throttle, make sure SHO is at 100..
You push that little button on the black display and then use the direction pad to alter